讓我們費了一番波折才到達的蒙馬特,自十九世紀開始就是諸多畫家聚集的地方,和聖傑曼德佩區一樣,也有許多個人畫室設立在此。到巴黎約兩年的莫內,便是在此處的畫室習畫,從而邂逅了同畫室的畢沙羅與塞尚。

Montmartre, where we finally got to after all the unexpected adventures, has long been a place at which many artists gather since the 19th century, and like St-Germain-des-Prés, where many private studios locate. Around two years into his life in Paris, Monet started studying in a private studio in Montmartre and met Pissaro and Cézanne who also studied under the same teacher.

位於蒙馬特丘陵頂的聖心堂,由於處於全巴黎海拔最高的位置,因此在遠處也清晰可見。儘管許多人可能誤以為聖心堂和許多歐洲教堂一樣歷史悠久,但其實於1914年落成的聖心堂僅有不到百年的歷史。

On top of the Montmartre hill, the highest point of Paris, sits the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur which could be seen even from afar. Unlike many other historical churches in Europe, Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, completed in 1914, is a few years shy of a century old.

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur 1.JPG 

1870-71年普法戰爭期間,巴黎被普魯士軍隊圍城數個月,法國政治人物Léon Gambetta便是從今日聖心堂所在處,乘熱氣球傳遞郵件與軍情給援軍。

During the Franco-Prussian War in 1970-71, when Paris was besieged by the Prussian army, it is from the summit of Montmartre hill where the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur stands now that the French statesman Léon Gambetta was sent out in a ballon delivering mails and military information to the auxiliaries. 

不過說到蒙馬特與聖心堂,不知道看過《艾蜜莉的異想世界》電影的人,是否還記得生長在蒙馬特的艾蜜莉,撿到男主角的相簿後,就是約男主角在此處領取相簿的。

However, speaking of Montmartre and the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, people who have seen the beloved French movie "Amélie" might still remember that after the Montmartre native Amélie picked up the photo album belonging to the guy she had a crush on, she directed him to Montmartre to collect the photo album.

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur 3.JPG 

當他來到蒙馬特後,艾蜜莉先用這個旋轉木馬旁的公共電話指示他順著階梯上的箭頭標示,一路爬到聖心堂前。(只可惜現在此處已經看不太到公共電話亭了。)

When the guy first got the Montmartre, Amélie instructed him to follow the arrows on the stairs all the way to theBasilique du Sacré-Cœur from a pay phone right next to this marry-go-round. (Unfortunately, almost all of the pay phones here have been removed.)

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur 8.JPG 

待他來到聖心堂前,有個小男孩要他透過望遠鏡,看到旋轉木馬旁經過偽裝的艾蜜莉把相簿塞進他的機車置物箱中。

這是艾蜜莉與男主角相識前,最接近彼此的一次接觸。

After he climbed to the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, he was guided by a little boy to witness, through a telescope, the disguised Amélie placing the photo album into the compartment of his motorbike near the marry-go-round.

This was their closest encounter before they really got to know each other.

在我們來到聖心堂前時,有位街頭藝人彈著吉他唱著一首又一首英文歌曲,吸引了許多人潮觀賞。

When we arrived at the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, a street artist strumming his guitar, singing several English songs, attracted a big audience.

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur 7.JPG 

聖心堂的內部是不准許拍照的,Sunny是守規矩的好小孩,所以外面拍拍就好,裡面就專心參觀。聖心堂的內部也相當漂亮,但還是不及聖母院。覺得弔詭的是,不管是聖心堂、聖母院,還是維也納的史蒂芬大教堂,裡面都有許多錢箱可以丟錢點蠟燭祈福或者禱告,不過不知道是聖心堂規模比較小還是怎麼樣,總有種沒走幾步路就看到一個這種丟錢的箱子的感覺,總覺得有點格格不入呀...當然這只是個人意見啦...

Photography is strictly prohibited inside the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur. Being a rule-follower, I didn't even try to snap any shot in there. The interior of the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur is very nice but by no means matches Notre-Dame. What is odd to me is that in either the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, Nortre-Dame or the Viennese Stephansdom, there are boxes for believers to throw in money in exchange of lighting up a candle for preyers. It might be because of its scale or whatsoever, it seems that there are many more such boxes in the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur than in other cathedrals. Somehow, such a secular notion just doesn't feel right in such a divine place to me. But of course, it's just my personal opinion.

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur 9.JPG 

一如前面所提到的,直到今日蒙馬特都是許多藝術家聚集的地方,因此在蒙馬特的街頭,也有許多替遊客畫肖像的畫家。

As mentioned above, even until now, Montmartre has been a place where artists gather; therefore, it is not unusual to see painters doing a portrait of some tourist on the street.

Montmartre 3.JPG 

甚至有個小廣場暱稱為畫家廣場,讓許多畫家在此展售他們的作品,也可以當場幫人作畫。

There is a tiny plaza nicknamed Painters' Square where many artists showcase and sell their works and paint simultaneously on demand.

Montmartre 6.JPG 

沿著羊腸小徑逛下山,沿途也有許多販賣各種海報、名畫重製品的小店。

Along the narrow alley down the hill, there are several shops selling reproductions of all kinds posters and paintings as well.

Montmartre 10.JPG 

梵谷生前也曾住在蒙馬特,因此據說可以到他曾住過的故居參觀,我們順著蒙馬特一帶蜿蜒的小路,以碰運氣的心情,打算如果有逛到梵谷故居就進去看看,沒逛到就算了。

沒想到沒遇上梵谷,卻遇上艾蜜莉。

The place where Vincent van Gogh once stay in Montmartre is open for tourists. We strolled down the zigzag pathway relying on the fate to either lead us to the van Gogh apartment or not.

What was unforeseeable is that the so-called fate didn't take us to van Gogh but to Amélie.

Montmartre 12.JPG 

(It's just a stray cat we ran into)

一路逛下山,Sunny這個小膀胱人,開始碎碎念說我想尿尿。忍了一路,最後總算大爆發,說我再不上廁所,要尿褲子了啦!此時,麻煩先生看到路邊有家咖啡廳生意挺不錯,就建議進去稍坐一下,喝點東西,順便讓我上廁所。

滿腦子只想著要解放的我,一直等到上完廁所,走出洗手間時,才看到一旁擺了好幾個《艾蜜莉的異想世界》電影中,艾蜜莉從父親家偷拔走,讓空姐朋友帶著到處旅行拍照的人偶。正燃起好奇心的我,一走到座位,又發現牆上貼了一堆艾蜜莉的海報。

搞了半天~原來這是電影中艾蜜莉所工作的咖啡廳場景!

Along the way, Sunny whose girly small bladder had been overloaded kept mumbling that I needed to pee. Eventually, I just couldn't hold it any more, or I would pee on my paints, so Mr. T suggested us make a pee stop and get some drink at a nearby cafe' which was quite happening.

Only after I used the toilet, did I notice that in the hallway to the restroom, there were several dolls identical to the one in the movie "Amélie" that she stole from her father's garden and asked her stewardess friend to carry around and take photos of. Just like that, I got curious and saw the huge posters of the movie on the wall.

We finally got to learn that this is the cafe' where Amélie works in the film.

Café les Deux Moulins  2.JPG 

如果有心想走一趟的話,這家咖啡廳名叫Café des 2 Moulins,位置如下:

If one intends to visit, the name of the cafe is "Café des 2 Moulins", location as shown below:

檢視較大的地圖

Café les Deux Moulins  4.JPG 

不過說到我們巧遇這家咖啡廳,儘管覺得說了或許很不討喜,還是忍不住想提一下,在這裡我們旁邊剛巧坐了一桌台灣女生,幾個正妹在裡面喧嚷嬉鬧不停自拍,惹得旁人不斷側目,也在咖啡廳裡大剌剌地開始補妝,丟了滿桌補完妝後的衛生紙、化妝棉。曾在台灣的論壇上看過討論,知道很多人不覺得大庭廣眾下補妝有啥不對或不好,但事實上在絕大多數的歐美國家,這都算是不禮貌的行為。雖然也不是要說什麼出了國就代表國家的八股說法,但如果可以的話,還是多尊重他人的文化,不要讓外人因此留下不好的印象,比較妥善。當然...這依然是我的個人意見啦....

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